You’ve got a new flat-screen, maybe a holiday upgrade, and you want it on the wall instead of on a wobbly stand. But the thought of a 50-pound TV crashing off the drywall, or a tangle of cords hanging below it, is enough to make you hesitate.
This guide walks you through how to mount a TV on the wall safely: choosing the right mount and VESA size, finding studs, picking the right height, and dealing with steel studs, plaster and brick. It also covers the real concerns with mounting over a fireplace and how to hide cables without breaking electrical code.
Quick answer: Buy a mount rated for your TV’s weight and VESA pattern, find the studs, and fasten the wall plate into at least two wood studs with the supplied lag bolts. Hang the TV so the center of the screen is near seated eye level, often around 42 inches from the floor. Never hang a TV on drywall anchors alone, and never run a regular power cord inside the wall; use an in-wall power kit made for the purpose.
Before you start: check the TV and the wall
Weight and VESA pattern
Look up your TV’s weight without the stand and its VESA pattern in the manual or spec sheet. The VESA pattern is the spacing of the four threaded holes on the back of the TV, listed in millimeters as width by height, such as 200 x 200 or 400 x 300. Your mount must list that pattern and a weight rating above your TV’s weight.
Wall type
Wood-stud drywall walls are the easiest and most common. Steel studs, plaster and lath, and brick or concrete all need different hardware, so figure out what’s behind the surface before you buy. Knock on the wall, check an outlet box with the power off, or drill a tiny test hole in an area the TV will cover.
TV mount types
| Mount type | How it moves | Distance from wall | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fixed (low profile) | Doesn’t move | Closest to the wall | Screens hung at eye level with seating straight ahead |
| Tilting | Tilts down, sometimes up | A little more than fixed | Slightly higher placements and reducing glare |
| Full-motion (articulating) | Extends, swivels and tilts | Pulls well away from the wall | Corners, open rooms and viewing from several seats |
| Pull-down | Lowers the TV toward eye level | Varies | Above fireplaces and other high locations |
Full-motion mounts put the most leverage on the wall, because the TV’s weight sits farther out. They need solid stud attachment and careful installation more than any other type.
How high to mount a TV
Aim for the center of the screen to sit at seated eye level. For most sofas, that works out to about 42 inches from the floor to the center of the screen. To customize it, sit where you’ll watch, measure from the floor to your eyes, and use that as the center height.
Avoid placing the screen so high that you tilt your head back to watch. In bedrooms, where you may watch from bed, a slightly higher placement with a tilting mount often works best. If there’s a shelf or media console below, leave a few inches of space between it and the bottom of the TV.
Tools and materials
- TV wall mount rated for your TV’s weight and VESA pattern
- Stud finder or strong magnet
- Drill/driver with bits for pilot holes
- Socket wrench or impact driver for lag bolts
- Level, tape measure, pencil and painter’s tape
- Screwdriver for the TV bracket screws
- A helper to lift the TV
How to mount a TV on drywall with wood studs
- Find the studs with a stud finder or magnet and mark their centers. Our guide on how to find a stud covers every method. Studs are usually 16 inches apart.
- Mark your target screen center height, then use the mount’s instructions to work out where the wall plate goes relative to that center.
- Hold the wall plate on the wall, level it and mark the bolt holes over the stud centers. Use at least two studs.
- Drill pilot holes into the center of each stud with the bit size listed in the mount’s instructions. If the bit doesn’t hit solid wood, stop and re-check your stud location.
- Fasten the wall plate with the supplied lag bolts and washers. Snug them firmly, but don’t overtighten to the point of crushing the drywall or stripping the wood.
- Attach the TV brackets to the back of the TV with the correct screws and spacers from the mount kit. Lay the TV face down on a soft blanket to do this.
- With a helper, lift the TV onto the wall plate and engage the safety locks or set screws.
- Check level, adjust the tilt or post-leveling feature, and tug gently to confirm it’s secure.
Safety note: Never hang a TV from drywall anchors alone, and never use adhesive or clamps. A falling TV can seriously injure a child. The CPSC’s Anchor It campaign urges families to secure TVs and furniture to the wall; if a TV stays on a stand, use an anti-tip strap anchored into a stud.
Steel studs, plaster and brick
Steel studs
Steel studs are common in condos, apartments and basements. Lag bolts won’t hold in thin steel, so use only the hardware your mount maker approves for metal studs, which is often heavy-duty toggle bolts through the face of the stud. If the TV is large or on a full-motion arm, have a pro open the wall and add wood blocking between studs.
Plaster and lath
Electronic stud finders can struggle with plaster. Drag a strong magnet across the wall to find the nails holding the lath to the studs, and confirm with a small test hole. Drill through plaster carefully with a sharp bit, and use lag bolts long enough to pass through the plaster and lath and still bite deep into the stud. Our guide on how to hang heavy things on drywall covers plaster in more detail.
Brick and concrete
Masonry walls are strong but need a hammer drill, carbide masonry bits and the masonry anchors specified by the mount maker. Drill into solid brick rather than mortar joints when possible, and vacuum the holes before setting anchors. See our guide to types of drill bits for choosing a masonry bit.
Mounting a TV over a fireplace
It’s a popular spot, but it comes with real trade-offs:
- Heat: Rising heat and smoke can shorten a TV’s life, and some manufacturers’ warranties exclude heat damage. Tape a thermometer where the TV will hang and run the fireplace for a few hours; if it gets hot to the touch, choose another wall.
- Neck strain: Over a mantel, the screen center often ends up several feet above seated eye level. A tilting or pull-down mount helps.
- Clearance: Leave space between the mantel top and the bottom of the TV, and follow the fireplace maker’s clearance requirements for combustibles.
- Structure: Chimney breasts are often brick or stone behind the drywall, which needs masonry hardware, or may have no studs where you need them.
Hiding TV cables safely
A standard TV power cord is not designed to run inside a wall. Concealing a regular power cord or extension cord in the wall violates the National Electrical Code, as this TV mounting guide points out, because the cord can overheat or get damaged where you can’t see it.
Instead, use one of these approaches:
- In-wall power kit: A listed kit with a recessed outlet behind the TV, connected by in-wall rated cable to a power inlet near the floor. The same guide puts these kits at about $50 to $80.
- Low-voltage cables: HDMI, coax and network cables can run inside the wall through a low-voltage bracket if they’re rated for in-wall use, usually marked CL2 or CL3.
- Surface raceway: A paintable cord cover on the wall surface is the simplest option for renters or plaster walls.
Before cutting any holes, shut off power to nearby circuits and scan for wires, pipes and fire blocking between studs. If you damage the drywall, our guide on how to patch a drywall hole covers the fix.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Choosing a mount without checking VESA pattern and weight rating
- Hitting only one stud, or missing the stud center so the lag bolt grabs only the edge
- Using drywall anchors instead of studs
- Mounting too high, especially over a fireplace
- Running the TV’s power cord or an extension cord inside the wall
- Forgetting to engage the mount’s safety locks
When to call a pro
Hire a TV mounting pro or electrician when:
- You’re mounting over a fireplace, on brick or stone, or on steel studs
- The TV is very large or uses a full-motion arm
- You want a new outlet behind the TV or cables run inside the wall
- You can’t find studs where the TV needs to go
According to this TV mount installation cost guide, professional mounting typically costs $158 to $360, with a national average of about $259. Mounting above a fireplace averages about $175 to $400, brick or stone walls about $200 to $800, and full in-wall wire concealment can cost as much as $1,000.
Frequently asked questions
Can I mount a TV without studs?
It’s not recommended for most TVs. Some mount makers approve heavy-duty toggle bolts for lighter TVs on fixed mounts, but studs are always safer, and full-motion mounts should go into studs or added blocking.
How high should I mount my TV?
Put the center of the screen near seated eye level, which is about 42 inches from the floor for typical seating. Adjust based on your own eye height and seating.
Can I run a TV power cord inside the wall?
No. Regular power cords aren’t rated for in-wall use. Use an in-wall power kit or have an electrician install an outlet behind the TV.
What does VESA mean on a TV mount?
VESA is the standard spacing of the mounting holes on the back of a TV, listed in millimeters. Your mount must support your TV’s VESA pattern and weight.
Is it safe to mount a TV over a fireplace?
It can be if the wall stays cool and you use a tilting or pull-down mount, but heat and viewing height are common problems. Test the wall temperature and check your TV’s warranty first.
The bottom line
To mount a TV on the wall safely, match the mount to your TV’s weight and VESA pattern, lag it into at least two studs and set the screen near seated eye level. Use approved hardware for steel studs, plaster and brick, think twice about the fireplace, and hide cables with an in-wall power kit rather than a cord in the wall.
