After a windy night, you spot a shingle lying in the yard, or you notice a tab that is cracked, creased or flapping in the breeze. A single damaged shingle may not seem urgent, but it exposes the nails and underlayment below, and the next heavy rain or snowmelt can find its way into the attic.
The good news is that replacing one or a few asphalt shingles is a manageable job on a low, walkable roof with the right tools and weather. This guide covers ladder and roof safety, the tools you need, how temperature affects the work, step-by-step replacement, and when the damage is a sign to call a roofer instead.
Quick answer: On a dry, mild day, slide a flat pry bar under the shingle above the damaged one to break its adhesive seal, then pull the nails holding the damaged shingle, including the nails from the course above that pass through its top edge. Slide in a matching new shingle, nail it in the manufacturer’s nail line with galvanized roofing nails, and seal the tabs down with dabs of roofing cement. Leave steep, high or icy roofs to a professional.
Can you replace a shingle yourself?
A DIY shingle replacement makes sense when the damage is limited to a few shingles, the roof is a single story with a gentle slope you can walk on comfortably, and the shingles are in otherwise good shape. It’s a common fix after wind lifts or tears a tab, a branch scuffs the surface or a nail pops up and punctures the shingle above.
It doesn’t make sense if the roof is steep or two stories high, if many shingles are curling, cracking or losing granules, or if you can see sagging or feel soft spots in the decking. Patching a worn-out roof one shingle at a time rarely ends well; our guide on the signs you need a new roof helps you tell the difference.
Ladder and roof safety
Falls are the real danger in this job, so set up carefully. This Old House’s extension ladder guidance covers the essentials:
- Use the 4-to-1 rule. Set the base about 1 foot out from the wall for every 4 feet of height to the point where the ladder rests.
- Extend it at least 3 feet above the roof edge so you have something to hold as you step on and off.
- Check the duty rating. It must exceed your weight plus tools and materials.
- Look up before you set up. Keep the ladder well away from power lines and the service wire to your house.
- Keep three points of contact while climbing, and carry tools in a bag or pouch rather than in your hands.
On the roof, wear soft rubber-soled shoes, stay off wet, frosty, mossy or icy shingles and don’t work in wind. Have a helper on the ground who can steady the ladder and pass materials. On anything steeper than a gentle slope, use a roof anchor and safety harness or hire a pro.
Safety note: Never stand on the top three rungs of an extension ladder, and never work on a roof alone. If you feel unsteady walking on the roof at all, that is your sign to call a roofer.
Tools and materials
- Extension ladder with the right duty rating, plus a ladder stabilizer if you have one
- Flat pry bar (a roofer’s flat bar or a thin, wide pry bar)
- Hammer and utility knife with hook blades
- Replacement shingles that match your roof
- Galvanized roofing nails, usually 1 1/4 inches for a single layer of shingles
- Asphalt roofing cement and a caulk gun or putty knife
- Soft-soled shoes, work gloves, safety glasses and a tool pouch
- Roof anchor and harness for anything beyond a low slope
Find a matching shingle
Check the garage, basement or attic for leftover bundles from when the roof was installed; many builders and roofers leave a few behind. If you don’t have any, carefully take a piece of the damaged shingle to a roofing supplier. Note whether it is a flat three-tab shingle or a thicker architectural (dimensional) shingle, since the two aren’t interchangeable.
Expect a slight color difference. Shingles fade as they weather, so even the same product will look newer for a while. On a visible slope, a close match in style and size matters more than a perfect color match.
Temperature and timing
Asphalt shingles change with the weather. They are flexible when warm, brittle when cold and soft when hot, and their adhesive strips only bond when the sun warms them. Pick your day accordingly.
| Conditions | What happens to shingles | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cold (near or below freezing) | Brittle; tabs crack when lifted, and new shingles won’t self-seal | Wait for a milder day if you can; work midday in the sun and hand-seal with roofing cement |
| Mild and dry | Flexible enough to lift without cracking | Ideal conditions for a repair |
| Hot, sunny afternoon | Soft; easy to scuff, tear and dislodge granules | Work in the cool of the morning and don’t walk on shingles more than needed |
| Wet, frosty or windy | Slippery roof; wind lifts tabs and materials | Don’t go up; use a tarp if you need temporary protection |
In late fall and winter, the new shingle’s adhesive strip may not activate until warmer weather arrives. That is why hand-sealing with roofing cement is important for any repair done in cool weather.
How to replace a damaged shingle, step by step
Step 1: Break the seal on the shingles above
Each shingle is glued to the one below by an adhesive strip. Slide your flat bar under the shingle directly above the damaged one and work it gently side to side to break that seal. Do the same for the shingles on either side if their edges overlap the damaged one. Go slowly, especially if it’s cool, to avoid cracking the tabs you want to keep.
Step 2: Remove the nails
A shingle is held by its own nails, usually four, placed just above the cutouts or in the marked nail strip. It is also pinned by the nails of the shingle above, which pass through its top edge. To free it, you’ll typically pull around eight nails.
- Lift the shingle above to expose the nail heads in the damaged shingle.
- Slide the flat bar under the damaged shingle, hook the notch around a nail and pry up gently until the nail head rises.
- Press the shingle back down and pull the raised nail out with the bar or a hammer claw.
- Repeat for the nails in the shingle above that go through the top of the damaged one.
Step 3: Remove the damaged shingle
Slide the damaged shingle out. Check the underlayment beneath for tears and patch any small holes with roofing cement. Pull or flatten any old nails that are still sticking up so they don’t puncture the new shingle, and fill old nail holes with a dab of cement.
Step 4: Install the new shingle
- If the new shingle is hard to slide in, trim the back corners slightly with a utility knife.
- Slide it up under the shingle above until its bottom edge lines up with the shingles on either side.
- Lift the shingle above and nail the new one in the nail line, using the same number and placement of nails your manufacturer specifies (four is standard; six is common in high-wind areas). Drive nails flush, not angled or sunk into the shingle.
- Re-nail the shingle above in its original nail line, placing new nails beside, not in, the old holes.
Step 5: Seal everything down
Put a few quarter-sized dabs of roofing cement under the tabs of the new shingle and under the shingle above where you broke the seal, then press them down firmly. Cover any exposed nail heads with a dab of cement. On a warm, sunny day, the adhesive strips will bond on their own, but hand-sealing guarantees it, especially in fall and winter.
Small repairs that don’t need a new shingle
- Lifted tab: Clean underneath, apply roofing cement and press the tab down. Weigh it down briefly if needed.
- Small crack or split: Spread roofing cement under the crack, press the shingle down and run a thin bead over the top.
- Nail pop: Pull the raised nail, drive a new one just beside it and seal both the new head and the old hole.
These are good stopgaps, but a shingle that is torn, brittle or missing granules across a large area should be replaced.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Nailing too high or too low. Nails outside the nail line either miss the shingle below or leave exposed heads.
- Reusing old nail holes, which won’t hold.
- Prying shingles in cold weather and cracking several more.
- Smearing roofing cement everywhere. A few dabs bond better and look neater.
- Skipping the nails from the course above and tearing the damaged shingle out by force.
When to call a pro
Call a licensed roofer if:
- The roof is steep, two stories or higher, or covered in moss, ice or frost.
- More than a few shingles are damaged, or damage covers several areas after a storm.
- You find soft decking, rot or water stains in the attic. See our guide on how to find a roof leak to trace it.
- The roof has slate, tile, wood shakes or metal, which need specialized repair.
- You’re filing an insurance claim and need a professional assessment.
Professional shingle repairs are relatively affordable. Fixr puts replacing missing or damaged shingles at typically $150 to $450, and Angi estimates that replacing damaged shingles takes a roofer one to four hours. Many roofers have a minimum service charge, so ask them to inspect the rest of the roof while they’re up there.
Frequently asked questions
Can you replace just one shingle?
Yes. As long as the surrounding shingles are in good shape, you can replace a single damaged shingle without touching the rest of the roof. The key is to carefully release and re-nail the shingle above it.
Can I replace shingles in winter?
You can if it’s an emergency and the roof is dry and free of ice, but it’s harder. Cold shingles crack when bent, and new shingles won’t self-seal until warmer weather. Work midday when the sun has warmed the roof and hand-seal with roofing cement, or use a tarp until spring.
Do new shingles need to seal?
Yes. The adhesive strip bonds the tab to the shingle below so wind can’t lift it. It needs warmth and sunlight to activate, which is why repairs in cool months should be hand-sealed with dabs of roofing cement.
What if I can’t find a matching shingle?
Match the style and size first, then get as close as possible on color. A roofing supplier can often identify the product from a sample. On a back slope or low-visibility area, a slight color difference is purely cosmetic and will fade over time.
The bottom line
Replacing a damaged shingle is a straightforward fix on a low, walkable roof: break the seal, pull the nails (including those from the course above), slide in a matching shingle, nail it in the nail line and seal it down. Pick a mild, dry day, follow ladder safety and hand-seal in cool weather. If the roof is steep, high or showing widespread wear, let a roofer handle it, and keep your gutters clear afterward with our guide on how to clean gutters safely.
