You notice a pile of tiny wings on a windowsill, a pencil-thin line of dried mud running up your foundation, or a baseboard that feels soft when you press it. Any of these can make you wonder whether termites are quietly eating your house, and the uncertainty is the worst part.
This guide covers the real signs of termites, how to tell termite swarmers from flying ants, the difference between subterranean and drywood termites, how to check your home, and what professional inspections and treatment typically cost. You will also learn which DIY moves to avoid so you do not make a pro’s job harder.
Quick answer: The most reliable signs of termites are mud tubes on foundations or walls, swarms of winged insects or piles of shed wings near windows and doors, small piles of tiny pellets below wood, and wood that sounds hollow or crumbles when probed. If you see any of these, leave the evidence in place, avoid spraying, and schedule a professional inspection. Termites work slowly, so you have time to get two or three quotes.
The main signs of termites
Termites spend almost their entire lives hidden inside soil, wood or the mud tunnels they build, so you rarely see the insects themselves. Instead, you find the evidence they leave behind. The EPA’s termite guide notes that termites rarely come out of the soil, mud tubes or wood they are feeding on, which is why these clues matter.
Mud tubes
Subterranean termites build shelter tubes of soil and saliva about the width of a pencil to travel between the soil and wood without drying out. Look for them on foundation walls, piers in crawlspaces, basement walls, sill plates and the back of wood steps. Break open a small section of one tube: if it is rebuilt within a few days, the colony is active.
Swarmers and discarded wings
Once a colony matures, it sends out winged reproductives called swarmers to start new colonies. Swarms often happen on warm days after rain, and the insects shed their wings soon after landing. Small piles of identical wings on windowsills, in spider webs or near doors are a common first clue.
Frass (termite droppings)
Drywood termites push their droppings out of small openings in the wood. According to University of California IPM, these pellets have six flattened sides and often collect in small piles below the infested wood. They look like coarse sand or ground pepper. Subterranean termites do not leave pellet piles, because they use their droppings to build tunnels.
Hollow or damaged wood
Termites eat wood from the inside out and leave a thin outer shell. Tap suspect wood with a screwdriver handle: a dull, hollow sound or a tip that pushes in easily is a warning sign. Damaged wood often has tunnels running along the grain, packed with soil or mud in the case of subterranean termites.
Other clues inside the house
Paint that bubbles or looks water damaged, baseboards that crumble, laminate floors that blister, and doors or windows that suddenly stick can all point to termite damage behind the surface. These signs have other causes too, such as moisture, so treat them as reasons to look closer rather than proof.
| Sign | What it looks like | Usually means |
|---|---|---|
| Mud tubes | Pencil-wide dirt tunnels on foundations, piers or walls | Subterranean termites |
| Shed wings | Piles of equal-length, translucent wings near windows and doors | A mature colony nearby |
| Pellet piles | Tiny six-sided pellets like coarse sand under wood | Drywood termites |
| Hollow wood | Thin surface that dents or cracks when probed | Active or past feeding |
| Bubbling paint, sticking doors | Surface damage with no obvious leak | Possible damage behind walls; inspect |
Termite swarmers vs flying ants
Flying ants and termite swarmers often appear at the same time of year, and many homeowners mistake one for the other. A close look settles it. The EPA points out that termite wings are roughly equal in length and their antennae are straight, while ants have longer front wings and bent, elbowed antennae.
- Waist: Termites have a thick, straight body with no waist. Ants have a pinched, narrow waist.
- Wings: Termite wings are all the same size and extend well past the body. Ant front wings are clearly bigger than the hind wings.
- Antennae: Termite antennae are straight or slightly drooping. Ant antennae bend at a sharp angle.
- Wing shedding: Termites drop their wings quickly, so you find loose wings. Ants usually keep theirs.
If what you have is ants, our guide to getting rid of ants in the kitchen covers baits and sealing. Carpenter ants are a separate concern because they also damage wood, so a pro inspection is still wise if you find large black ants and sawdust-like debris.
Subterranean vs drywood termites
The type of termite decides both the signs you see and the treatment you need.
Subterranean termites
These are the most common termites in most of the US. They nest in the soil, need constant moisture and reach your house through mud tubes or cracks in the foundation. Damage usually starts low, in sill plates, floor joists, crawlspaces and wood that touches soil. The invasive Formosan subterranean termite, found mainly along the Gulf Coast and in Hawaii, forms especially large colonies.
Drywood termites
Drywood termites live inside dry wood with no soil contact, so you will not see mud tubes. They are most common in warm coastal areas such as Florida, the Gulf Coast, Southern California and Hawaii. They can infest attic framing, window frames, furniture and trim, and the telltale sign is piles of pellets.
Dampwood termites
Dampwood termites need very moist, often decaying wood. They are less common in homes and usually point to a leak, a rotting deck or poor drainage that needs fixing anyway.
How to check your home for termites
A homeowner check will not replace a professional inspection, but it helps you catch problems early. Pick a dry day and work around the house from the outside in.
- Walk the full perimeter with a flashlight and look for mud tubes on the foundation, especially behind shrubs, under porches and where steps meet the house.
- Check the garage, especially the bottom of door frames and wood that sits on the slab.
- In the basement or crawlspace, inspect sill plates, joists and support piers. Probe soft-looking wood with a screwdriver.
- Check windowsills, door thresholds and light fixtures for shed wings, particularly after warm, rainy days.
- Look under and behind wood furniture, trim and attic framing for pellet piles if you live where drywood termites are common.
- Note any moisture problems you find, such as leaking pipes, damp crawlspace soil or downspouts that dump water against the foundation.
Tools and materials
- Bright flashlight or headlamp
- Flathead screwdriver for probing wood
- Gloves, knee pads and a dust mask for crawlspaces
- Zip-top bags or a small jar of rubbing alcohol for samples
- Phone camera to document tubes, wings and damage
Pro tip: Do not tear down every mud tube or spray store-bought insecticide on what you find. The termites simply reroute, and you destroy the evidence an inspector uses to locate the colony and plan treatment. UC IPM notes that DIY pesticides are generally ineffective against termites.
What to do if you find termites
Take a breath. Termite damage builds over months and years, not days, so you have time to make a careful decision instead of signing the first contract offered.
- Photograph the evidence and collect a few swarmers or wings in a bag or a jar of alcohol.
- Get inspections from two or three licensed pest control companies. Many offer them free.
- Ask each company which termite species they found, where, and how they plan to treat it.
- Confirm the company is licensed by your state, and ask to see the product label to make sure it is registered for termites.
- Compare warranties, including whether they cover retreatment only or also repair of new damage, and the cost to renew each year.
Treatment options and typical costs
Liquid soil treatment
For subterranean termites, a professional applies a liquid termiticide into the soil around and under the foundation to create a treated zone. It works quickly and usually involves trenching around the house and drilling through slabs or porches.
Bait systems
Bait stations are installed in the soil around the home. Termites feed on the bait and share it with the colony, which slowly declines. Baits use less pesticide but can take months, and they need ongoing monitoring.
Fumigation, heat and spot treatments
Widespread drywood infestations may need whole-structure fumigation under a tent or whole-house heat treatment. Smaller, localized drywood infestations can sometimes be handled by injecting treatment directly into the galleries or replacing damaged wood.
According to Angi’s termite treatment cost guide, the national average is about $621, with most homeowners paying roughly $264 to $1,032. Liquid treatment typically costs $3 to $16 per linear foot and bait systems $8 to $12 per linear foot, while fumigation tenting often runs $1,200 to $2,500 or more. Angi also reports that many companies inspect for free, and paid inspections average about $165.
How to prevent termites
- Keep wood siding and framing at least 12 inches above the soil, as UC IPM recommends.
- Pull mulch back a few inches from the foundation and never stack firewood or lumber against the house.
- Fix leaks promptly and keep crawlspaces dry and ventilated.
- Keep gutters clean and extend downspouts so water drains away from the foundation.
- Remove old stumps, buried wood scraps and rotting fence posts near the house.
- Seal foundation cracks and gaps around utility lines.
- Schedule a professional inspection every few years, or yearly in high-risk areas. Add it to your fall home maintenance checklist so it does not slip.
When to call a pro
Termites are not a DIY pest. Over-the-counter sprays cannot reach the colony, and soil treatments require licensed applicators and specialized equipment. Call a licensed pest control company if you see:
- Mud tubes anywhere on or in the house
- Swarmers emerging indoors, or shed wings inside on windowsills
- Pellet piles below wood trim, furniture or attic framing
- Wood that is hollow, crumbling or tunneled
- Sagging floors or ceilings, which also call for a contractor to check the structure
Expect most treatments to fall in the few-hundred to low-thousand-dollar range, with fumigation at the high end. Angi lists annual service plans at about $200 to $400, which is worth considering in high-risk regions to keep a warranty active.
Frequently asked questions
Can I get rid of termites myself?
Not reliably. Store-bought sprays kill only the termites they touch, and the colony can contain many thousands of workers deep in the soil. Professional soil treatments, baits and fumigation are the methods that eliminate colonies.
Does homeowners insurance cover termite damage?
Usually not. Standard policies generally treat termite damage as a maintenance issue rather than a sudden loss. Read your policy and keep inspection records, especially if you are buying or selling.
Do termites swarm in the fall?
Most swarms happen in spring, but some species swarm in late summer or fall, often after rain. Swarmers indoors at any time of year, including winter, strongly suggest a colony in or under the house.
How fast do termites damage a house?
Slowly. Serious structural damage usually takes years, which is why regular inspections catch most problems early. That is also why you have time to compare quotes instead of rushing.
Does seeing a swarm mean my house is infested?
Not necessarily. Swarmers outdoors may come from a nearby stump or woodpile. UC IPM notes that a swarm does not always mean your home is infested, so get an inspection to confirm.
The bottom line
The clearest signs of termites are mud tubes, shed wings, pellet piles and hollow wood. Learn to tell swarmers from flying ants, leave the evidence alone, and get a licensed inspection before spending money. With prompt treatment, dry soil around the foundation and regular inspections, termites are a manageable problem rather than a disaster.
