Drip, drip, drip. A leaky faucet starts as background noise and ends up keeping you awake, staining the sink and quietly adding to your water bill. You’ve probably tried cranking the handle harder, which works for a day and then makes things worse.
The good news is that most drips come down to one small, cheap part that wore out. This guide shows you how to tell which type of faucet you have, how to shut the water off, what to buy, and how to repair compression, cartridge, ball and ceramic disc faucets step by step. It also covers what to do if it still drips afterward and when replacing the faucet makes more sense.
Quick answer: Shut off the hot and cold valves under the sink, open the faucet to drain it, then remove the handle and pull out the stem or cartridge. Take the old part to the store and buy an exact match (a washer and O-ring for older two-handle faucets, or a cartridge or seal kit for most single-handle faucets). Install it in the same orientation, turn the water back on slowly, and test.
Why faucets drip in the first place
Every faucet has a valve inside that opens and closes against water pressure. Over time, rubber washers harden, O-rings flatten, cartridges wear and minerals build up on sealing surfaces. Once that seal isn’t perfect, water seeps past it and drips from the spout even with the handle closed.
Where the water appears tells you a lot. A drip from the spout means the main valve seal is worn. Water around the handle usually points to an O-ring or packing nut, and water around the base of a kitchen spout is often worn spout O-rings. Water inside the cabinet is a separate problem covered in our guide to finding a leak under the kitchen sink.
How much water a dripping faucet wastes
A slow drip adds up. According to the EPA WaterSense Fix a Leak Week program, a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year, roughly the water used for more than 180 showers. If the drip is on the hot side, you’re also paying to heat water that goes straight down the drain.
Identify your faucet type first
Buying the right parts depends on knowing what’s inside your faucet. Most homes have one of four designs. Look at the handles and how they move, then use the table below.
| Faucet type | How to recognize it | What usually wears out | Typical parts to buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two handles that turn several times and feel firmer as they close | Rubber seat washer, O-ring, valve seat | Washer and O-ring assortment, seat (if pitted) |
| Cartridge | One lever or two handles; smooth movement, often a quarter or half turn | Cartridge and its O-rings | Exact-match cartridge, O-ring kit |
| Ball | Single handle over a rounded, dome-shaped cap that pivots in all directions | Rubber seats, springs, cam packing, spout O-rings | Ball faucet repair kit for your brand |
| Ceramic disc | Single lever over a wide cylinder body, or two-handle quarter-turn valves | Neoprene seals, rarely the discs themselves | Seal kit or replacement disc cartridge |
Look for a brand name on the handle, trim plate or spout base, and check the supply lines under the sink for a model tag. Knowing the brand and model makes finding an exact replacement much easier.
Pro tip: Photograph each part as it comes off, lay the pieces out in order on a towel, and bring the old cartridge, stem or washer to the hardware store. Matching it side by side beats guessing from a parts chart.
Before you start: shut off the water and prep
- Find the shutoff valves (angle stops) under the sink, one for hot and one for cold. Turn each clockwise until it stops.
- If there are no valves, or they won’t close fully, shut off the main water valve for the house.
- Open the faucet in both hot and cold positions to relieve pressure and drain the lines.
- Close the drain stopper or cover the drain with a rag so small screws can’t fall in.
- Lay a towel in the sink to protect the finish and cushion dropped parts.
Safety note: Shutoff valves that haven’t moved in years can seize or leak around the stem when you turn them. Turn them gently by hand. If one drips after closing, a slight tightening of the small packing nut behind its handle often stops it; if it won’t close at all, use the main shutoff and plan to replace that valve.
Tools and materials
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Hex (Allen) key set, standard and metric
- Adjustable wrench, jaws wrapped in tape to protect chrome
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil and white vinegar for stuck or crusty parts
- Silicone faucet grease
- Replacement washers, O-rings, cartridge or repair kit for your faucet type
- Seat wrench or cartridge puller (only if a part is stuck)
Parts are inexpensive. ConsumerAffairs lists O-rings at about $1 to $5, washer packs around $2 to $5, valve seats about $5 to $10 and cartridges typically $10 to $100 depending on the brand.
How to fix a compression faucet (two-handle)
Compression faucets are the oldest design and the easiest to repair. First, figure out which side is leaking: a warm drip means the hot side. You can also close one shutoff at a time and see which one stops the drip.
- Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the screw underneath and lift the handle off.
- Loosen the packing nut around the stem with a wrench, then unscrew the stem counterclockwise.
- Remove the brass screw at the bottom of the stem and replace the rubber seat washer with an identical size. Replace the screw too if it’s corroded.
- Replace the O-ring on the stem to stop leaks around the handle.
- Feel the valve seat inside the faucet body with your finger. If it’s rough or pitted, remove it with a seat wrench and replace it, or smooth it with a seat dressing tool if it isn’t removable.
- Grease the new washer and O-ring lightly, thread the stem back in, snug the packing nut and reinstall the handle.
Don’t overtighten the handle when you close the faucet afterward. Crushing a new washer is the most common reason a compression faucet drips again within weeks.
How to fix a cartridge faucet (single- or two-handle)
The cartridge is a plastic or brass cylinder that controls both flow and temperature in single-handle faucets, or flow alone in two-handle faucets.
- Pop off the handle cap and remove the handle screw, or loosen the set screw under the lever with a hex key. Lift the handle off.
- Remove the decorative sleeve, then pull out the U-shaped retaining clip or unscrew the retaining nut. Note exactly which way the cartridge faces.
- Pull the cartridge straight up with pliers. If it won’t budge, use a brand-specific cartridge puller rather than twisting hard, which can damage the faucet body.
- Buy an exact match. New O-rings can stop a leak around the handle or spout, but a drip from the spout usually needs a full cartridge.
- Clean mineral deposits from the faucet body with vinegar, grease the new cartridge’s O-rings, and push it in facing the same direction as the old one.
- Reinstall the clip or nut, the sleeve and the handle.
If hot and cold are reversed afterward, the cartridge is rotated 180 degrees. Remove the handle, turn the cartridge stem half a turn and reassemble.
How to fix a ball faucet
Ball faucets have a single handle on a rounded cap and are common in older kitchens. They have several small parts, so buy a complete repair kit for your brand first.
- Loosen the set screw under the handle and lift the handle off.
- If the leak is only around the handle, tighten the adjusting ring with the spanner tool from the kit. That alone sometimes fixes it.
- Otherwise, unscrew the cap, then lift out the cam, cam washer and ball.
- Pull out the two rubber seats and springs with needle-nose pliers, then press in the new ones.
- For leaks at the base of a kitchen spout, twist the spout off and replace its O-rings.
- Reassemble with the new cam parts and snug the adjusting ring until the handle moves smoothly without leaking.
How to fix a ceramic disc faucet
Ceramic disc faucets rarely wear out because two hard, polished discs do the sealing. When they drip, the cause is usually worn neoprene seals or grit stuck between the discs.
- Remove the handle and the escutcheon cap.
- Unscrew the disc cylinder and lift it out.
- Remove the seals from the bottom. If the cylinder is crusted with minerals, soak it in white vinegar for a few hours, then rinse.
- Fit new seals. If a disc is cracked or chipped, replace the whole cylinder.
- Reinstall the cylinder, cap and handle.
- Set the handle to open, then open the shutoffs slowly. A sudden rush of air and water can crack the discs.
Still dripping after the repair?
| Symptom after repair | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Spout still drips (compression) | Pitted or worn valve seat | Replace or dress the seat, then fit a new washer |
| Spout still drips (cartridge) | Wrong cartridge, or debris on the seal | Confirm the exact model; clean and reseat |
| Water leaks around the handle | O-ring not seated, or packing nut or adjusting ring loose | Regrease and reseat the O-ring; snug the nut or ring |
| Hot and cold reversed | Cartridge installed rotated | Turn the cartridge stem 180 degrees |
| Weak flow after repair | Debris knocked loose into the aerator | Unscrew the aerator and rinse the screen |
| Water in the cabinet below | Loose supply line or drain fitting | Trace the leak with a dry paper towel |
If flow stays weak after cleaning the aerator, the problem may be in the house supply. Our guide to low water pressure in the house explains how to test it.
When to replace the whole faucet instead
- The faucet body is cracked, corroded or leaking from the metal casting itself.
- You can’t find parts, or the cartridge costs nearly as much as a new faucet.
- You’ve repaired it more than once and the leak keeps coming back.
- The handles are loose in the body or the spout wobbles.
- You want to cut water use. WaterSense labeled bathroom faucets flow at no more than 1.5 gallons per minute versus a 2.2 gpm standard, which the EPA says can reduce sink water flow by 30 percent or more.
Faucets commonly last around 15 years, a figure often attributed to the National Association of Home Builders. ConsumerAffairs lists bathroom sink faucets at about $50 to $300 and kitchen faucets at $50 to $400, plus roughly $100 to $250 for installation. To do it yourself, see our guide on how to replace a kitchen faucet.
When to call a pro
Most drips are a solid DIY job, but call a licensed plumber if you see any of these red flags:
- The shutoff valves won’t close, are corroded or leak when you touch them.
- Parts are seized and you’d need enough force to risk twisting or cracking the supply pipes.
- The leak is from a tub or shower valve inside the wall.
- Water is reaching the cabinet, wall or floor and you see swelling, staining or a musty smell.
- The faucet connects to old galvanized or corroded lines.
Professional leaky faucet repair typically costs $150 to $350, with plumber labor commonly $45 to $200 an hour, according to ConsumerAffairs. Many plumbers charge a minimum service fee, so have them look at other small issues, like a toilet that keeps running, on the same visit.
Frequently asked questions
Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?
No. Once you remove the stem or cartridge, water comes out at full pressure and can flood the cabinet in seconds. Close the valves under the sink, or the main shutoff, before you loosen anything.
Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the cartridge?
The usual causes are a cartridge that isn’t an exact match, a pinched O-ring, or grit trapped on the seal. Check the part number, clean the faucet body, grease the O-rings and reinstall it in the original orientation.
How do I know if the hot or cold side is leaking?
Feel the drip, since hot-side drips are usually warm. If you can’t tell, close the hot shutoff for a few minutes. If the drip stops, it’s the hot side.
Can I just tighten the handle to stop the drip?
Turning a compression handle harder may slow the drip briefly, but it crushes the washer and makes the leak worse. Single-handle faucets don’t seal better with extra force. Replace the worn part instead.
How long should a faucet last?
Many faucets last around 15 years, and ceramic disc models often go longer with an occasional seal replacement. Hard water shortens the life of washers, O-rings and cartridges, so drips may appear sooner in hard-water areas.
The bottom line
A leaky faucet is almost always a worn washer, O-ring, cartridge or seal, and the repair takes an hour or less once you know your faucet type. Shut the water off, match the old part exactly, reinstall it the same way it came out and turn the water back on slowly. If the faucet is old, corroded or keeps leaking after a proper repair, replacing it is the smarter long-term fix.
