You’ve finally decided the dated floral border or faded vinyl has to go, but the first corner you pull tears off in a tiny strip and leaves stubborn backing behind. Wallpaper removal has a reputation as a miserable job, and it can be if you start scraping before you know what you’re dealing with.
This guide shows you how to identify strippable, peelable and traditional wallpaper, when to score, which removal solutions work, how to use a steamer safely, and how to repair torn drywall facing so your walls are ready for paint. It also covers the lead paint caution that matters in older homes.
Quick answer: Pull a corner first to see if the paper is strippable or peelable. If it won’t come off dry, score it lightly, soak it with hot water mixed with fabric softener or a wallpaper remover, wait 10 to 15 minutes and scrape it off with a wide putty knife. Use a steamer for stubborn paper, wash off every trace of glue, then seal any torn drywall paper with an oil-based or shellac primer before patching and painting.
Step zero: identify your wallpaper and your wall
The right method depends on two things: the type of wallpaper and what’s underneath it. Spend five minutes testing before you buy anything.
Peel-and-stick (removable) wallpaper
Modern self-adhesive paper is designed to come off. Lift a corner and pull slowly downward at a low angle, close to the wall. It should release in full sheets with little or no residue.
Strippable wallpaper
Strippable paper comes off the wall in one piece, backing and all, when you pull it dry or after a light dampening with hot water. Much of the wallpaper sold in recent decades is strippable, which makes for an easy afternoon.
Peelable wallpaper
Peelable paper separates in two layers. The vinyl or printed top layer pulls off dry, but a thin paper backing stays stuck to the wall. That backing absorbs water readily, so soaking and scraping it is usually straightforward.
Traditional (non-strippable) wallpaper
Older paper and many vinyl-coated papers tear into small pieces when you pull them. Water can’t get through the surface, so you’ll need to score it and soak it, or use a steamer. Several layers stacked on top of each other fall into this category too.
| Type | Quick test | Removal method | Effort |
|---|---|---|---|
| Peel-and-stick | Corner lifts cleanly with no tearing | Pull slowly downward, wash off residue | Easy |
| Strippable | Whole sheet comes off dry or after a light dampening | Pull dry, then wash the wall | Easy |
| Peelable | Top layer pulls off, paper backing stays | Peel top, soak and scrape backing | Moderate |
| Traditional or vinyl-coated | Tears in small pieces, water beads up | Score, soak or steam, scrape | Hard |
| Multiple layers | Thick edges, different patterns at tears | Steam, one layer at a time | Hard |
Drywall or plaster?
Knock on the wall and press a pushpin into a hidden spot. Drywall sounds hollow between studs and takes a pin easily, while plaster sounds solid and resists it. Plaster tolerates soaking and steaming well. Drywall is more delicate: its brown paper facing softens and tears if you oversoak it or scrape aggressively, and paper hung on unprimed drywall can be the hardest removal of all.
Safety note: Turn off power to the room’s outlets and switches at the breaker before you start spraying water, and tape plastic over the openings. In homes built before 1978, the paint under or on top of old wallpaper may contain lead, and scraping it creates hazardous dust and chips. Test first, and follow the EPA’s lead-safe renovation guidance if it’s positive. Steamers produce scalding water and steam, so wear gloves, long sleeves and eye protection.
Tools and materials
- Plastic sheeting plus absorbent drop cloths or old towels
- Painter’s tape and a screwdriver for cover plates
- Scoring tool (use a light touch on drywall)
- Pump garden sprayer or spray bottle, bucket and large sponge
- Hot water with liquid fabric softener, or a commercial wallpaper remover
- 3 to 6 inch stiff putty knife or wallpaper scraper with rounded corners
- Wallpaper steamer for stubborn or multi-layer paper
- Dish soap, baking soda and white vinegar for glue residue
- Oil-based or shellac primer, joint compound and a sanding sponge for repairs
- Gloves, safety glasses and a sturdy step ladder
How to remove wallpaper, step by step
Step 1: Prep the room
Move furniture away from the walls, then shut off the breaker for the room and remove outlet covers, switch plates and vent covers. Lay plastic on the floor with absorbent drop cloths or towels on top, and tape plastic along the top of the baseboards so water runs onto the floor covering rather than into the trim.
Step 2: Try peeling it dry
Use a putty knife to lift a corner at a seam near the floor or ceiling. Pull slowly and steadily at a low angle, keeping the paper close to the wall. If whole sheets come away, keep going. If only the top layer releases, strip it everywhere and move on to soaking the backing.
Step 3: Score non-strippable paper
Run a scoring tool over the wall in overlapping circles with light pressure. The tiny perforations let water and remover reach the glue. Pressing hard punches holes through drywall facing that you’ll have to repair later, so on drywall use the lightest pressure that still breaks the surface, or skip scoring and rely on steam.
Step 4: Soak a small section
Fill a sprayer with hot water and a remover. A simple homemade option is about 1/4 cup of liquid fabric softener per gallon of hot water, the ratio Bob Vila’s removal guide recommends, or use a commercial enzyme wallpaper remover mixed per the label. Saturate an area of about 3 x 3 feet, wait 10 to 15 minutes, and re-spray if it starts to dry. Working small keeps the solution from drying before you scrape.
Step 5: Scrape gently
Hold the scraper nearly flat against the wall and push under the softened paper. If it resists, it needs more soaking time, not more force. Round the sharp corners of your scraper with a file or use one with rounded corners to reduce gouges in the drywall.
Step 6: Use a steamer for stubborn paper
For multiple layers, painted-over wallpaper or paper that won’t soften, a steamer is the most effective tool. Hold the steam plate flat against one spot until the paper darkens or bubbles, usually less than a minute, then move the plate to the next spot and scrape the area you just steamed. Keep the plate moving on drywall so you don’t soften the facing too much, and keep the cord and hose out of your walking path.
Step 7: Remove every trace of glue
Leftover wallpaper paste is a hidden cause of many paint failures, because it can make new paint crack, wrinkle or peel and bubble. Wash the walls with hot water, a squirt of dish soap and about a tablespoon of baking soda per bucket, or add about a cup of white vinegar per gallon for stubborn adhesive. Scrape softened glue with a putty knife, then rinse with clean water. The wall is clean when it no longer feels slick or tacky.
Step 8: Let the walls dry completely
Give the walls at least a full day to dry, longer in humid weather or if you soaked drywall heavily. Turn the power back on only once the outlet boxes and the area around them are dry.
Repairing the walls after wallpaper removal
Even careful removal can leave damage, especially on drywall. Repairing it properly is what separates a smooth paint job from one that shows every scrape.
Torn brown drywall paper
If the scraper exposed fuzzy brown paper, don’t put joint compound or water-based primer straight onto it. Water makes the torn paper swell and bubble. Cut away any loose flaps with a sharp utility knife, then seal the area with an oil-based or shellac primer or a sealer made for damaged drywall. Once it’s dry, skim it smooth with joint compound.
Gouges, dents and holes
Fill small gouges with lightweight spackle or joint compound and sand flush when dry. For larger holes left by anchors or rough scraping, follow our guide on how to patch a drywall hole.
Skim coat a rough wall
If the wall has many small tears and ridges, a thin skim coat of joint compound over the whole surface is often faster than patching spot by spot. Apply thin coats with a wide knife, let each dry, and sand lightly between coats.
Prime before you paint
Prime the whole wall before painting. An oil-based or shellac primer seals any remaining adhesive and repaired paper, while a water-based primer can reactivate leftover glue. Then follow our step-by-step guide on how to paint a room, and use the free paint calculator to estimate primer and paint.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Soaking the whole room at once. The solution dries before you get to it, and you end up soaking twice.
- Scoring too hard. Deep perforations in drywall mean hours of patching later.
- Forcing the scraper. If paper won’t come off, give it more water or steam rather than more muscle.
- Leaving glue behind. Residue under paint can cause cracking, wrinkling and peeling.
- Using water-based primer over torn paper or glue. It can bubble the facing and reactivate the paste.
When to call a pro
Most homeowners can remove wallpaper from a room or two. Consider hiring help when you find:
- Several layers of paper, or paper that has been painted over many times.
- Paper hung directly on unprimed drywall that tears the facing with every pass.
- Very high walls or stairwells that need scaffolding.
- Old paint underneath that tests positive for lead.
- Water stains, soft drywall or mold behind the paper.
According to Angi’s wallpaper removal cost guide, professional removal typically costs $422 to $1,192, with an average around $792. Pros usually charge $0.60 to $3 per square foot or $40 to $80 per hour, so a bedroom with about 200 square feet of wallpaper typically runs $120 to $600. Minor patching or skim coating afterward typically adds $100 to $500.
Frequently asked questions
What is the easiest way to remove wallpaper?
Start by testing whether it’s strippable, because many papers simply peel off dry. If it doesn’t, soaking with hot water and a remover works for most single layers, and a steamer is the easiest option for old or multi-layer paper.
Does fabric softener really remove wallpaper?
Yes, it helps. Fabric softener acts as a wetting agent that lets hot water soak into the paper and loosen the paste. A mix of about 1/4 cup per gallon of hot water works well on porous paper and backing, though vinyl-coated paper still needs scoring or steam.
Should I score wallpaper before steaming?
Light scoring can speed up steaming on vinyl-coated paper, but it isn’t always needed. On drywall, use very light pressure or skip it, since deep scoring damages the paper facing underneath.
Can you paint over wallpaper?
You can if the paper is tightly bonded with no loose seams, by sealing it with an oil-based or shellac primer first. It’s a shortcut with risks: seams can show through, and moisture from paint can loosen the paper. Removing it is usually the better long-term choice.
How do you get wallpaper glue off walls?
Wash the wall with hot water, dish soap and a little baking soda, or a vinegar and water mix for stubborn paste. Let it soak, scrape off the softened glue, then rinse and let the wall dry before priming.
How long does it take to remove wallpaper from a room?
Strippable paper in a small room can come down in an afternoon. Traditional paper, multiple layers or painted-over paper can take a full weekend, plus a day or more for repairs and drying before you prime.
The bottom line
Wallpaper removal goes much faster when you identify the paper first, work in small soaked sections and let water or steam do the work. Remove every bit of glue, seal any torn drywall paper with an oil-based or shellac primer, and test for lead in older homes before you scrape.
